The Mont Blanc massif is an outstanding setting for the many forms of modern mountaineering. Pure rock walls, major mixed and glaciated faces, serrated ridges and narrow gullies stand alongside classic routes accessible to a wider range of climbers.
This book selects 104 essential climbs, from historic classics to lines opened in recent years, presented in increasing order of difficulty. The selection considers long-established and more recent criteria for reaching prestigious summits by the most interesting routes.
For each climb, the author introduces its history and atmosphere before providing the necessary technical information, supplemented by routes marked on photographs and detailed sketches. High-quality photography is a major feature.
The routes were chosen for the quality of their rock and protection, the beauty of their surroundings, the prestige of the summit and their popularity. The effects of climate change are also considered, including climbs that have become inaccessible or dangerous.
Modern approaches feature prominently: gullies that form only in winter, high-altitude crags equipped for difficult free climbing, linked ridges and traverses of major summits.
Well-known routes include the Cosmiques Arête, the American Direct on the Drus, the Whymper Couloir on the Aiguille Verte, the Shroud and the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, and the Kuffner Arête on Mont Maudit. The selection also includes Le Festin de Babeth on Les Ciseaux, No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses and Ma Dalton on the Aiguille du Midi.
